Hiking and Swimming in Canton Thurgau
This spring I was given the daunting task of planning an all-day excursion for a family outing this summer, when our entire extended family will be together. The excursion has to fulfill a variety of needs for people of different ages, with different interests, physical abilities and temperaments. There will be nine or ten of us underway; a teenager and young adult with their girlfriends, my oldest son, his wife and their two young children (toddler and infant), and of course my husband and myself. Although we all enjoy being outdoors hiking or swimming, we tend to want just a little bit more on our trips – a bit of culture, history, or science and technology thrown in as well. In addition, some steps must be taken to ensure a safe and enjoyable outing with the young children.
I decided to plan a day walking the two-lake hike around the Nussbaumersee (Lake Nussbaum) and Hüttwilersee (Lake Hüttwil) in Canton Thurgau, finishing up with a picnic and swim in one of the two lovely lakes, both of which were carved during the last glaciation. The lakes are official swimming lakes with a small kiosk, a simple restaurant, and changing and toilet facilities located at the Nussbaumersee. There is a diving/jumping tower in the swim area, which my teenager especially enjoys. In addition there are pleasant grill sites located along the hiking trail. Do plan to occupy one of these sites early, though, as they are usually quite in demand.
The hike takes about four hours to complete. It is 16.5 kilometers long. The trail extends the perimeter of the two lakes and includes level paved paths, making it easy for anyone pushing a stroller or walking with a toddler to navigate. There is a nature trail, too, which somewhat parallels the paved way and winds through this protected marshland, which, by the way, is reminiscent of the Shire from The Hobbit! I suggest that you wear hiking boots (or galoshes) if you intend to take the nature trail, as some areas require traipsing through swampy landscapes. Children usually love that aspect of the outing – getting wet and dirty. And, if you choose to swim after the hike, the mess will be nicely “solved.”
What I love about this area is that it is pure Swiss nature to enjoy in a hands-on manner, yet it has historical and cultural significance. This is a natural moor landscape that was used to harvest peat in modern times before the area was drained to allow local farming. In addition, the area was recently accepted into the UNESCO World Heritage Site catalog. The Nussbaumersee is the site of a former Neolithic settlement of the Pfyn Culture, as well as Early- and Late Bronze Age settlements. Information about the sites’ archaeologic significance and excavation history are displayed on a number of information boards dispersed around the lake (German only). There is also a ruin of the castle Helfenberg, erected in the late Middle Ages in 1342 AD. The ruin is located on a slight elevation overlooking the lakes. You can easily take a break from hiking to explore the ruins; older children can easily explore this ruin; but do be aware that climbing and playing amidst the ruin is at your own risk.
There is parking at the Hüttwillersee.
By public transport: from Zurich you can take the train to Winterthur or Frauenfeld and then a post bus to Hüttwillen. From the Frauenfeld train station take the post bus to Hüttwillen Post (bus ride is about 14 minutes), which departs every hour.
Once you arrive you walk along the small river until you reach the lake (about 30 minutes). If you travel with young children then I suggest travelling to the area by car and parking at the swimming site parking lot.
For more information, see this video of the area, go to this tourism site, or even view the swimming area with Google Maps.
By Dr. Teresa Bingham Müller
Teresa is an earth scientist and instructor by education and an avid traveler and adventurer by nature. She has three boys ages 32, 19 and 16.
Photos by Dani Müller